you get a copy of it, can you post it on a seperate email?
We (thekickstand)are also looking for a pos system. Lucky for us we have some computer gurus on board who are familiar with linux and open source software. I run linux myself, and plan to run it at the shop as well, as open source seems to fit well into the idea of community... and sharing... and happiness :)
I'll let you know what we decided on when we get a computer at the shop. For now we do not have any sales yet.
Wikipedia has a great comparison of accounting software, its a chart:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comparison_of_accounting_software
If you do not intend to run linux, there are opensource applications that are cross platform, meaning they will run on windows macs or linux.
If you want to stick to the main stream, Quickbooks seems to be the most popular software for small business. If you have nonprofit status, you can buy a copy from Techsoup really cheap.
http://techsoup.org
Techsoup rocks for nonprofits. They have quite a catalog of software that is available to nonprofts for pennies. As well as sometimes hardware is donated.
hope this helps,
vyki--
On Sun, Mar 2, 2008 at 12:51 AM, Justin Pogge <xecax@hotmail.com> wrote:
i was wondering if anyone had a point of sales system on a computer at their shop?
i know that the bicycle kitchen in LA does and they were offering a copy of it to anyone that wanted it, but i have not received an email reply from them.
i think that it would make keeping track of funds much easier along with helping us do our irs forms.
anyone want to share their program?
justin
krank it up! community bicycle project
tallahassee florida
> From: mark@re-cycles.ca
> Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 14:10:37 -0500
> To: thethinktank@bikecollectives.org
> Subject: Re: [TheThinkTank] direct-pull brake levers v. everything else
>
> Below are some guidelines, courtesy of one of our former mechanics.
>
> Mark
>
> ++++++
>
> The difference between Canti levers and V levers (the difference you
> can see) is the distance between the cable head and the lever pivot.
> The larger the distance the greater the cable pull, which means less
> mechanical advantage which means less scary flip-your-bike-over-but-
> mushy-feeling power when mated to v brakes.
>
> Many newer brake levers also have a little "v" or "c" stamped
> somwhere (often on the part of the lever 'handle' that disappears
> inside the lever 'body').
>
> Some other levers can be used with both V's and canti's - the point
> in the lever where the cable is anchored is adjustable, either by
> moving spacers and manually moving the cable head, or by twirling a
> little dial. The latter is only used on higher quality (read: not
> likely at most bike recycling places) levers made by Avid.
>
> And the actual distance betwen pivot and cable? I'm not really sure
> exactly, but I would estimate about 2 cm for V levers and approx. 1.5
> - 1cm or less for canti levers. Look at any cheap old Lee Chi's or
> Di Yung's for a perfect example of a non-v lever.
>
> If you mate canti levers with v brakes you get very mushy feeling
> brakes, crazily uncontrollably powerful brakes, and very little
> clearance between the pads and the rim. If you mate v levers with
> canti (or caliper or U) brakes you get very low stopping power and an
> extremely stiff lever feel. Its actually pretty easy to tell when
> you know what you're looking for.
>
>
>
> On 29-Feb-08, at 12:50 PM, Erik Stockmeier wrote:
>
> > sheldon brown (r.i.p.) went on at length all over his website about
> > not mixing direct-pull ("V" brake, noodle brake) brake levers with any
> > other type of brakes & vice versa.
> >
> > here is one quote, from http://www.sheldonbrown.com/canti-
> > direct.html :
> >
> > Direct-pull cantilevers have double the mechanical advantage compared
> > with traditional brakes, so they require special brake levers.
> > Direct-pull brake levers pull the cable twice as far, half as hard.
> > The lower mechanical advantage of the lever compensates for the higher
> > M.A. of the cantilever. It is not generally safe to mix and match
> > levers/cables between direct pull and other types for this reason.
> >
> > * Conventional brake levers used with direct-pull cantilevers will
> > usually not pull enough cable to stop in wet conditions without
> > bottoming out against the handlebars. In dry conditions, they either
> > won't work, or will grab too suddenly.
> >
> > * Direct-pull brake levers used with any other type of brakes will
> > feel nice and solid when you squeeze them, but due to their lower
> > mechanical advantage you'll need to squeeze twice as hard to stop as
> > you should, so unless you are a lightweight rider with gorilla-like
> > paws, this combination isn't safe either.
> >
> >
> > ...end quote
> >
> > so my question is this... do i need to go through my personal
> > collection of brake levers and somehow identify/separate DP levers
> > from the rest? is there any simple way to do this? it seems like a
> > problem i've seen many people run in to--the brakes seem fine on the
> > stand, nonexistant when the bike goes out for a test ride. so this is
> > probably something we should be on the lookout for, right?
> >
> > ok, thanks
> >
> > erik
> >
> > of course there is this huge and boring page as well:
> >
> > http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-geometry.html#mechanical
> > _______________________________________________
> > Thethinktank mailing list
> > Thethinktank@bikecollectives.org
> > http://lists.bikecollectives.org/listinfo.cgi/thethinktank-
> > bikecollectives.org
>
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Climb to the top of the charts! Play the word scramble challenge with star power. Play now!
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Vyki Englert
"sprocket" acting Director of operations
Member Board of Directors
Gainesville Community Bicycle Project, Inc "the Kickstand"
722 South Main Street Gainesville Fl 32601
www.thekickstand.org
vyki.englert@thekickstand.org
850.819.8808
'every normal man must be tempted, at times, to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin slitting throats.' --h.l. mencken
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