Good one Josh! THis becomes second nature after a while, and I don't even think to explain it to people. Along similar lines when it comes to mechanical advantage:

When trying to remove tough pedals, or bottom brackets take the bike out of the stand and have someone hold it upright for you. This does two things. It puts the bike on a much more solid platform, so it can't rock in the direction you are trying to twist, and it also allows you to get your weight on it. You can exert a lot more downward pressure on a wrench when you can put the weight of your body behind it. So when trying to loosen a tight nut, always try to get the wrench in an orientation where you can push down. 

When removing a tight Freewheel, you can use a wheel skewer to hold the freewheel tool in place. this frees up a hand, which you will ned, but it also holds the tool on much better than you can do freehand. Next put the wheel on the ground, and get behind it so that the freewheel side is away from you, and lean over the wheel. put the largest adjustable wrench on so it is more or less parallel to the ground and going down. Support the wheel with your chest and put your weight behind the wrench and push down. If this doesn't work, you can also put the freewheel tool in a bench vise, lay the wheel on top of it, grab the wheel by the tire or rim if there is no tire on it, and twist counter clockwise (someone correct me if I'm wrong here I always have trouble flipping this around in my head when the wheel is upside down like this)when viewed from the top. 

On Oct 23, 2012, at 9:46 AM, veganboyjosh@gmail.com wrote:

when working with two nuts that are opposed (headset cone/locknuts, axle/cone nuts, etc) use the angle of the wrenches to your advantage. 

whether you're trying to unlock the pair or tighten them, the following method works. i've never typed it out, so i don't know how effective it will be in writing. it's much easier to show someone this trick. it will save many busted knuckles and swear words. 

open ended wrenches usually have some kind of angle to them. the axis of the body of the wrench isn't quite lined up with that of the jaws of the open end. this means that for any given fixed nut, there are two potential orientations for your wrench. in order to get a better angle, flip the wrench over. 

now, when you have two nuts in opposition, you'll need two wrenches. which offer FOUR potential orientations.

pay attention to where the wrench lies, and try to orient your wrenches such that when you apply the force, should they max out, the two wrenches will be aligned. ie, if you're locking the nuts together, you want the wrench on the top/outside nut to be going clockwise starting at 5 o'clock), while the wrench bottom/inside nut goes counterclockwise, starting at 7 o'clock. as the nuts get locked together, be careful not to leave your fingers between the wrenches. as they get closer together. 
 the same works for unlocking the nuts, just switch the directions/starting locations of the wrenches. as they unlock, the wrenches will move towards one another, allowing even inexperienced mechanics to work them in a very controlled manner. 

this really is a magical trick to show people who've never used it. if this explanation doesn't do it, let me know and i'll try to post a video explanation. 







On Tue, Oct 23, 2012 at 9:21 AM, Andrew Burnell <aburnell@gwi.net> wrote:

Good morning,

Lately, many of our kids have been coming in and requesting that we share a “trick of the trade” with them to help them in their bike repair/learning.  Many of them have spent time on YouTube and searching the web for pro mechanics tricks and creative bike repair tricks.  Could you add your tricks of the trade to our list? Here is what we have thus far:

1.       Use WD-40 with steel wool to remove rust from your bike. Be careful when using this method on rims- or be sure to clean your bike very well before riding it after using this method.  Oily breaking surface = no breaks!

2.       For rust removal, rub the part with aluminum foil dipped in vinegar.

3.       When you put the seat back on, pull a piece of string taught from the center rear of the seat to the center of your steer tube. This is much more precise than “eyeballing” it.

4.       Use old spoke nipples as cable ends, just slide the nipple over the cable end, shank end first, squeeze the nipple shank with the wire cutting jaws of a pair of pliers (gently) to fix to the cable then nip off the head of the nipple with the wire cutters.

5.       If you have a bent derailleur hanger, find an old, worthless hub axle with the same thread pitch, thread it into the hanger, and use as a lever to bend it back. Be careful not to strip threads or snap the hanger.

6.       When you are attaching your cleats to your shoes, especially with MTB shoes, fill the hex holes with melted wax (just drip it off a candle). Then, when it's time to tighten/adjust/replace your cleats all you have to do is melt the wax out with a lighter rather than spend 10mins chipping out 2 years’ worth of well packed clay.

7.       When trying to remove a stripped hex bolt try gently tapping your hex wrench into the bolt and then loosening the stripped bolt—call it Andy’s trick.  You may also try using a rubber band at the end of the hex wrench.

8.       When installing pedals, just remember that the right pedal goes in the "right way" and the left pedal is not "right”.

9.       Use a pair of spanners to hold grip tape in place when taping your bars.

10.   Use fourth hand tool to tighten zip ties.

11.   Use steel file on the ends of brake housing to give your work a nice professional touch.

 

Andrew

Andrew Burnell, Volunteer and Program Director

Community Bicycle Center

Shop: 284 Hill Street, Biddeford, ME 04005

Mail: P.O. Box 783, Biddeford, ME 04005

207-282-9700 (shop)

www.communitybike.net

 


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