This one I actually figured out awhile ago:
- For accessing those 18mm ebike axlenuts on axles with power cables
running out of them, and which often having a bash guard also on the axle: FLARE NUT WRENCH.
Sockets won't work because electrical cable, box ends won't work because same, and the open end of a combo wrench is most often TOO FAT around its jaws to fit inside the bars of the bash guard or in the recess of the dropout. A flare nut wrench has the clearance of a box end, with the ability to allow passage for the cable that an open end would have.
A trick that I'd like to try would be to *make* a flare nut wrench from the box end of a combination wrench by grinding an opening into it. I think it'd have to be one of the older box ends that's just a hex inside though, the newer kinds that are more fully castellated inside for multi-positioning on the nut would probably end up being too structurally weak if you cut a slot in them.
And then this one, imparted to me by another mechanic just last week:
- In an emergency, you can re-size a larger diameter innertube into a
smaller one by tucking the tube inside itself until the desired diameter is reached. This has been dubbed "the foreskin technique" (gross, but appropriate). It's important to leave the tube airless until it has been fit into the tire and the beads are in place. Even though the resulting tube has imbalanced weight from being double-thick where it overlaps itself, once inflated it works well enough that you might not even know the difference riding it.
~cyclista Nicholas
Thanks for these Nicholas!
I did not know about this one here (at 1:25 min ) https://youtu.be/mv03LQLHkZg?si=3wWeSBjMCKj8G31B
Quick tip to get some slack on a cable housing for quick maintenance. Very useful.
Claude Ferron, Co-Coordonator La Cyclerie, Trois-Rivières, QC, Canada Bike Culture + Self-Repair Community workshop www.lacyclerie.ca
yup! The thing he left out was checking the limit screws on the derailleur. after disengaging the cable with knuckle trick pedal the bike and the chain will jump into the small sprocket once again with the knuckle trick push the derailleur into the next cog and let go if the H limit screw is correct the chain will step lightly into high gear if not we to adjust next push into lo the low end and similarly use the second to top step for examining the L limit adjustment (he alluded to this hat end of his cable dressing). There is also the derailleur hanger that can be easily bent in a crash or just falling over while parked. Symptoms of a bent derailleur are the chain going past the low gear cog and falling into the space between that largest cog and the spokes. There are tools for adjusting the hanger that involve removing the wheel and derailleur. in keeping with the "quick and dirty" theme of the video using an allen wrench as a lever, place the wrench in the derailleur mounting screw head (5 or 6 mm depending on the age of the derailleur, use the one that fits) apply a bending force to the hanger while standing directly behind the bike so as to see that the derailleur cage and pulleys are coplanar with the cassette/freewheel. At this time we can also see any misalignment in the fore and aft plane. THe same twisting lever action will remedy these noisy and poor shifting conditions. In all the axle, derailleur mounting screw, and jockey wheel bolts need to be parallel. I looked on youtube for a video of these descriptions of derailleur hanger alignment and didn't find one.
participants (3)
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Claude Ferron -
cyclista＠inventati.org -
Jim Bledsoe