- TheThinkTank - lists.bikecollectives.org

Coaster Brake Hub Overhaul
by BovineOaks＠aol.com 27 Nov '07

27 Nov '07

The coaster brake hub has the following parts from the drive side to the brake arm side for Suntour and Bendix hubs. When you are trying to put the hub back together this is the order you will need to follow. Axle, Axle nut Washer Lock nut (Thin) Adjusting cone 1" ball bearing retainer with 1/4 inch balls Driver with retaining ring, cog and some have dust caps 1 1/4" ball bearing retainer with 1/4 inch balls Hub shell Clutch ( Usually made of three parts, one being a spring) Brake pads (Some have clutch pads and brake pads) Stationary expander 1 1/4" ball bearing retainer with 1/4 inch balls Dust cap Brake arm Keyed (With chain stay clamp, nut and bolt) Washer Lock nut (Thick) Washer Axle nut Tools needed: Bench Vice, Can be a small 3' Jaw, clamp on vice, or a full size bolted to the table vice. Two cone wrenches to fit the lock nut and adjusting cone, (15 MM and 9/16" or 17 MM are normal) Magnet, Rod or Pen style is nice. Grease (you get to choose the quality you like) Shop rags to remove old grease. Disassembly Procedure The order parts go into the hub shell and the orientation they go into the hub shell are important. Flipping brake pads, bearing retainers, brake arm, hub shell, or adjusting cone can be a really bad thing. As you take parts off the axle, Lift them straight up, and over to a rag, place them in the order you take them off and in the orientation they were on the axle. Do not flip them over in your hand as you put them down on the shop rag. Place a shop rag beside a bench vice. Take off both sets of axle nuts and washers and put them on a rag. One set (nut/washer) in one corner of the rag and one set (nut/washer) on the other corner at the top of the shop rag. Hold the hub so the axle is pointed towards the ceiling and the floor with the brake arm on the bottom side of the hub shell Place the lock nut next to the brake arm in the jaws of the vice, (DO NOT put the axle threads in the jaws) Put the correct cone wrenches on the Lock Nut and the Adjusting Cone. Hold the Adjusting Cone still as you loosen the Lock Nut. put your cone wrenches down. Use your fingers to unscrew the Lock Nut and place it beside the washer on the rag. Use your fingers to unscrew the Adjusting Cone and place it beside the Lock Nut on the rag, Orientation is important. Use the magnetic pen to remove the 1" ball bearing retainer and place it beside the Adjusting Cone on the rag. Orientation is important. Use your fingers to twist the Driver out of the hub shell, place it beside the Ball Bearing Retainer on the rag. It may fall on its side. Use the magnetic pen to remove the 1 1/4" ball bearing retainer and place it beside the Driver on the rag. Orientation is important. In the next step the brake pads will fall out the bottom of the hub shell. If you wrap one finger and a thumb below the bottom flange of the hub shell to catch the brake pads as they fall out. Grasp the hub shell and lift it off the axle. Place it on the rag beside the 1 1/4" ball bearing retainer. Orientation is important. Pick the brake pad off the floor and place them on the rag beside the hub shell. ( I knew you would drop them the first time, you will get better at catching them) Remove the Clutch and place it on the rag beside the Brake Pads. Orientation is important, and the Suntour Clutch likes to fall over. If you have a digital camera take a photo of the parts and their orientation before you clean. This is all that you need to remove to rebuild a hub. If you want to disassemble the rest do the next list, if not skip and go to Cleaning Grasp the Brake Arm and twist it counter clock wise. Loosen the bench vice jaws from the lock nut. Use your fingers to remove the lock nut, place it on the rag next to the second set of axle (nut/washer) Remove the Brake arm and place it on the rag beside the Lock Nut. Orientation is important. Remove Dust Cap from Stationary Expander, and place it beside Brake Arm, Orientation is important. Using your fingers unscrew the Stationary Expander Push on both sides of the 1 1/4" ball bearing retainer to pop it off the Stationary Expander. Place the Stationary Expander beside the Dust Cap, Orientation is important. Place the 1 1/4" ball bearing retainer beside the Stationary Expander. Orientation is important. If you have a digital camera take a photo of the parts and their orientation before you clean. Cleaning I prefer to use a rag and no cleaners. If you use a green color bio degreaser it will work a little better if it is warmed up to 120 F. If you use a Yellow citrus degreaser, use gloves and ventilation. The green stuff is a strong detergent and the yellow is an aromatic citrus acid. If I do not use a solvent then I do not have to remove the solvent from the part with a second compound. Detergents remover the citrus and water removes the detergents from your parts. I like to push out all the bearings out of the retainers and replace them with new grade 300 balls. Grade 25 Campagnolo quality bearings would be overkill. I wipe all the grease I can get off the bearing cups/ cones and the threads of the clutch/ driver. There are also new parts washers that use warm detergent if you like to use big tools. Wash with water after to remove the detergent. Place all the parts back on the shop rag in the correct order and orientation. Reassembly If you did not remove the brake arm from the axle then skip the next nine lines. In the correct orientation place the 1 1/4" ball bearing retainer on the Stationary Expander In the correct orientation screw the Stationary Expander about 1 1/2" onto the Axle In the correct orientation place the Dust Cap on the Stationary Expander In the correct orientation place the Brake Arm on the Stationary Expander Place the Washer against the Brake Arm Screw the Lock Nut on the axle up to the washer, Keep the assembly loose so you can adjust it. I use the 1" Ball Bearing Retainer as a measuring tool to determine where the lock nut is supposed to be. I hold the assembly in one hand and twist the Axle in or out of the rest of the loose assembly until one inch is sticking out from the Lock Nut. Check that the Stationary expander is snug against the lock nut. Place the Lock nut into the jaws of the bench vice. Grasp the Brake arm and tighten it clockwise as hard as you hand will allow. No hammering needed. In the correct orientation place the Clutch on the Axle and onto the Stationary Expander, Twist the clutch until it locks into the Stationary Expander. Look at the inside of the brake pads, Bendix pads will have one end smooth and one end with dents in the surface finish. The smooth sides of the brake pads push against the stationary expanders smooth ramps. on the other end of the brake pad will be little dent marks from the rough edges of the Clutch ramps. Grease up the inside of the Hub Shell and the bearing race cups at the end of the Hub Shell. The more the merrier The following is a strange skill I learned form a good teacher. Place the brake pads between the ears of the Stationary Expander. Pinch the pads as far to the bottom of them as you can. Slide the Hub Shell down over the pads. Do not release your fingers and push the shell down, Let the Hub Shell push your fingers out of the way as you slowly push it down. Twist the Hub Shell to make sure it is seated correctly over the lower bearings. No bearing should be visible from the outside. Install the Upper 1 1/4 bearing retainer, Orientation is important. Grease the Driver cup and cone surfaces. Install the Driver into the Hub Shell, twist it into the Clutch. Install the 1" Ball Bearing Retainer into the Driver. Install the Cone, Orientation is important. Install the Lock Nut Using the appropriate Cone Wrenches adjust the cone and lock it into place. Check the hub adjustment to see if it is too tight or too loose. We have been holding races with our students to Disassemble, name all the parts, and reassemble a coaster brake hub. These were hubs cleaned of all their grease and just for such races. The top time so far is 2:36 Two minutes thirty six seconds. Pinching the brake pads is a real trick. Christopher Wallace BicycleEducation(a)aol.com **************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest products. (http://money.aol.com/special/hot-products-2007?NCID=aoltop00030000000001)

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coaster brakes
by Macho Philipovich 27 Nov '07

27 Nov '07

any shops have coaster brake materials they'd like to share? thanks, macho

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full-timers/directors/project coordinators: how's the job treating you?
by rachael spiewak 27 Nov '07

27 Nov '07

since taking on directing sopo full time, i've come to find that this job is all kinds of intense. wonderful, but exhausting. i'm wondering.. how much if it is me and how much of it is this job? is it unique to community bike shops, or is it like this for other kinds of organizations? or is it more about the organization being a start-up? for the folks in a similar position: what's your day like? hanging in there? thanks! rachael

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tool order
by tom m. 27 Nov '07

27 Nov '07

tips please on how to order tools, I know... go to parktools.com but more detail, exactly what do you do there? _________________________________________________________________ You keep typing, we keep giving. Download Messenger and join the i’m Initiative now. http://im.live.com/messenger/im/home/?source=TAGLM

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Re: [TheThinkTank] full-timers/directors/project coordinators: how's the job treating you?
by omar 26 Nov '07

26 Nov '07

it seems the "get organized" vs. "more leftist than thou" dynamic plays out at all levels of many community bike projects. when our ed left in 2001, the 4 full time staff members stepped up to manage our organization collectively. by 2005, 3 of the 4 had left because, bottom line, they couldn't work together, and projects had dropped to the point that we'd atrophied to a single community bike shop. now, realizing that shit flows downhill and if someone's going to clean it up they should be recognized for it, we've developed a hierarchy, people have assumed managerial and coordinator roles, and we're once again getting a lot done. there are still folks who complain that there's too much structure and want to make things more egalitarian - funnily enough though, they're also the ones who rarely step up, have a hard time showing up to work their shifts and don't seem to get much done. i love my job. its crazy and stressful some days, constantly challenging, infinitely rewarding and a hell of a lot of fun. -- omar bhimji project manager pedal bike depot p. 604.708.4992

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Bicycle Co-Ops & Zoning?
by Jake Liefer 26 Nov '07

26 Nov '07

Hello, I operate a small bike Co-op in a small, run down town called Beaver Falls, PA. We're looking into purchasing a location and think we've found the perfect spot. It's a former business / house with a three car garage and a large glass storefront area. The only problem is that it's zoned residential even though it used to be a business many years ago. The street is pretty run down, with three of the four 'neighbors' being vacant housing, so I'm not too worried about neighbors complaining about it. I'd like to paint our logo on the garage but I'm afraid that it my draw too much attention from the zoning people. Do any of your co-ops operate in non-commercialy zoned space? Have you had any problems arise because of it? Thanks, Jake

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Tethering Tools - How?
by Rich Points 19 Nov '07

19 Nov '07

We're working with a school who would like to tether a tire pump near the bike parking, We've also thought about tethering tools outside our shop to be used during closed hours. Does anyone have experience with tying tools to cables and this kind of service? Even tethered I'm sure things still get ripped off. If you've done this kind of thing what has been your experience? Peace -- Rich Points Community Cycles Director http://CommunityCycles.org Rich(a)CommunityCycles.org 720-565-6019

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attempting to rouse enthusiasm...
by Previc, Stephanie T 19 Nov '07

19 Nov '07

hello bicycle lovers, I am attempting to organize a "bike day" here in Gainesville this sunday to get the idea circulating about forming a community bicycle project. earlier attempts have failed--the last, our beloved "kickstand", it seems, because everyone involved was a student, and therefore too transient to commit to the project. I am hoping that this event will capture the attention of people who are a little mroe settled, and who will be able to keep the project running smoothly, even during the times when gainesville dies--winter break and summer vacation. i am hoping that i can get some ideas from you folks for how to introduce this project, as it is currently just a concept for free bike repair (and community building!) rather than an actual thing. i'm not really sure where to start, but i am hoping to draw a crowd and get them excited about the sort of things that inspired me when i attended bike!bike! this year. i would love to hear how you introduced you vision of a community bicycle shop to the people in your city, how you drew volunteers, and what kind of model i can follow now that i am starting completely from scratch and attempting to rebuild this collective. also!! i wanted to put together a take-home zine for everyone who attends, maybe including some vignettes about bicycles, some repair tips, and information on other bicycle projects around the country. if you guys could send a paragraph or two on why your collective is awesome (or if you want to contribute something else to put in this booklet) i think it might shed some light on how incredibly vast and varied this free bicycle repair movement is. thanks so much, stephanie (The Kickstand, Gainesville, Florida)

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incorporation into an existing 501c3?
by andrewsawtelle＠riseup.net 16 Nov '07

16 Nov '07

We here at Recycle-A-Bike (www.recycleabike.org) in Providence, RI have been using space at The Steel Yard (www.thesteelyard.org) for a couple seasons now. They're doing some major renovations and site remediations (they're located on an old metalworking site and there's lots of nasty things in the ground and in the air), so we're moving out of the old space and looking for a new one. The Steel Yard seems really excited about the idea of incorporating us as a full department, along with Ceramics + Glass, Metalworking, Foundry, Jewelry, and some other programs. There's also a site on the space where we could build a standalone shop and storage space from shipping containers. They could be a really good fit for our program, and it would save us a lot of dealing with becoming our own legal entity. I didn't hear any situation that was similar to ours in discussions at Bike!Bike! in August. Most people seem to rent space and just do things on the fly, incorporate as their own 501c3, not-for-profit, or collective, be a startup working under the auspices of an existing organization, or have a fiscal sponsor that's hands off. I think we're different because we've been running for 6 years on our own in various spaces, with pretty much no legal status, and we're thinking about joining up with an existing 501c3. I'd like to know if anyone has some advice for us on things to watch out for, or at least make sure we take into account as we think about whether to incorporate ourselves into The Steel Yard. A couple questions I can think of immediately. 1) Jim Bledsoe of the Bicycle Kitchen mentioned that if you become a 501c3, your assets can't ever be transferred to any other legal entity other than another 501c3. This means that if we decided to become part of the Steel Yard, then split in a few years for some reason, we'd have to become our own 501c3. 2) What does it mean to have a loosely organized collective operating within a 501c3 with an established board/staff structure? Since we're not a legal entity on our own, can we write something into an agreement with them that at least recognizes the collective's existence? None of the Steel Yard's other departments started like ours would; they grew out of people coming to them to start classes and other programs. peace, andrew recycle-a-bike providence, ri

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Liability Insurance
by maintenence collective 15 Nov '07

15 Nov '07

Hi all, (bikefarm here) I feel like this was brought up before, but we've recently realised that the QBP application requires Liabiliy Insurance... and it'd be a good thing to own... does anyone know where to get it and how much it costs? thanks... Ariel

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