I've decided to start a new series here that I'll call "Stuff I've
Learned Recently".
The intention is to share exactly that. I often find solutions to
problems, or simply learn something new about bicycles, bicycle
mechanics, or running a community bike shop. In the case where this
knowledge may be arcane or even unique, I often think it's a shame that
these techniques and perspectives may be lost. I've considered doing a
YouTube channel, but that's more effort than I have to spare. I'm fond
of this list and what it represents, so perhaps it can be useful here.
No promises on the frequency of posts in this series. They will happen
as often as I experience revelations. Many of these bits of knowledge
may be already understood by some, but unless most of you already know
these things, please try to refrain from "I already knew that" replies.
I'll be sure to only post things which I think most readers will benefit
from. I'm sure these posts will impress some readers, while impressing
upon others exactly how much I hadn't already known. This is okay.
Mostly this is a way of speaking what probably otherwise would be
unspoken.
Other are encouraged to contribute their own entries to this series -
but please title them all the same (Stuff I've Learned Recently) for
easy searching.
To kick off the series, here are the first entries:
- High pressure tires (with tubes) require high pressure rim strips. If
a common rubber rim strip is used with a deep-v rim, the tube may
herniate into the spoke holes even if the rim strip is in good condition
and properly centered. There may not even be a tear or rupture in the
rim strip itself at the point where the blowout occurred; the tube can
simply push the rim strip aside as it bulges into the hole and ruptures.
So make sure those road tires get cloth or thick plastic rim strips!
- Replacing a broken spoke doesn't always have to mean removing the tube
and tire. If the spoke breaks at the flange, you can simply unthread it
from the spoke nipple and thread the new one back in without ever
removing the tube or tire.
- Some e-bike hubmotors feature freewheels whose inner castellations
(for interfacing with the socket) are very deep, requiring a very long
socket. In some cases the depth may make the castellations difficult to
see, making it seem that the freewheel wasn't intended to be removed,
similar to some department store kids' BMX sprockets that ship with no
castellations at all. However, the castellations are usually present,
and a Park FR 1.3 socket will reach them most of the time. The socket
may need to be reamed progressively with a large stepper bit at the
hexagonal end in order for the connector of the motor control/power
cable to pass through. There are also direct-from-china sockets that are
especially long that can work, but they also may need to be reamed.
- This one's an old revelation, but nobody but me seems to have
discovered it, so I'll document it now: When applying torque with a pipe
wrench to a seized seatpost to turn it, in cases of extreme seizure the
force applied to the jaws will crush and tear the post itself away from
the frame, rendering the post inaccessible. This crushing can be
prevented by cutting off the seatpost two or three inches above the
frame, and stuffing the hollow center with a solid iron rod of the
appropriate diameter. As the seatpost is tempted to buckle under the
torque of the wrench jaws, instead it braces against the iron core such
that greater force can be applied. I have alternately used chisels,
rebar, punches, and various bits of scrap metal to stuff seatposts with
the appropriate diameter of rod in the past.
- This one's also old: some innertube punctures only leak at high
pressure, and my not leak at all when inflated and listened for, or
placed under water. Outside of a tire, innertubes can only reach
relatively low pressures when inflated before completely exploding.
Thats about all I can think of for now. Cheers! I hope this was
interesting or useful, or both!
~cyclista Nicholas
